Marlee and Me

We have moved into our flat on 2 Mead0w Street AKA "Roxy"! Marlee and I have a MASSIVE room on the second floor street side. Its certainly not the ritziest of flats as we have mangled bars on the windows and a massive billboard that says "SCORE SAFELY" advertising condom use on the side of it but we're lucky to have a security guard who watches over us during the night-- he even went so far as to radio the guard at Nursery house to escort us to the internet cafe in Rondebosch this evening.

Its the feeling of being on constant edge that gets you. Groups of women walking around here are not safe from dusk on. Even during the day we're bombarded by the poor and addicted for money or food. They're different from the homeless in the US because they don't have anywhere to go. There aren't soup kitchens and shelters and government sponsored rehabilitation programs. Its as if God has turned his back on these people. And its policy to not give beggars money because there are simply too many of them. Its a desperation that I've never known. This is the starving Africa you see on TV, and its on the doorstep of the wealthy who continue to retain their economic dominance post-Apartheid.

The racial tension hit me like a slap in the face. Some Black or Colored South Africans (there is a difference) look on White Americans with disdain, and others with admiration for the things we have that we may not deserve. South Africa has the largest race-based income disparity in the world, where the wealthiest 10% make almost 50% of the income and the poorest 20% only around 3%. In more ways then I can mention this place is a more extreme version of New Orleans ranging from the socio-economic climate to the Bourbon-esque Long Street.

On a lighter note, today I discovered the joys of "Brai" pronounced "bry" which is barbeque. These are very popular all over South Africa. We ate lamb and salad and potatoes that were all seasoned with novel spices. I was pleased to try new things, but last night at The African Palace I most certainly passed on the Ox Tail that was served... no thanks. There was also coke light, which is kind of like coke zero-- diet coke doesn't exist here.

Peering out the Cocoa Wah-Wah window at the cars rushing by with a green tea in my hand and Marlee to my right, I feel a moment of serenity and security that will be rare during these 4 months. The energy of young country were people dance when they are angry and fight with their fists instead of their words electrifies me. It shakes me hard, but it can also hold me in its arms.

All my love from Roxy,

A