Sunday, July 25, 2010

Ode to Mini Bus Taxis


This one goes out to a phenomenon in South Africa that I call The Mini Bus Taxi-- or "Kumvees." Woah, that spelling is wildly unclear and probably inaccurate.

Here in South Africa not everyone can afford an 100R or 120R cab ride to the Waterfront (this is around $14-17). For this reason, society came together to create the kumvee. Envision a large mini van where the interior has been altered to jam as many people inside as possible. Seats have been replaced by benches that fold down so people can climb over eachother in an effort to hitch a ride. Massive speakers that probably cost more than the car vibrate the vehicle and its contents with the Kumvee driver's favorite tunes (ranging from 80's Whitney Housten to SA hip hop to the latest Justin Bieber album). These things are EVERYWHERE. Living on Main Road I hear the cries of the part of the operation that I refer to as "the yeller": a guy that rides in the back with the passengers and shouts out the window at people walking to get into the kumvee. "WINEBERGGGGG!!!!" or "CAAAAYYYPEEE TOWWUUN" peppers the soundtrack of whizzing mufflerless 18 wheelers and honking locals. This is my version of bedtime magic.

These bus taxis cost around 6R or $0.75 for a 30 minute cab ride that can't be described on any planet as glamorous. You never know where you're going to end up in the back... perhaps sandwiched between a woman carrying her baby around on her back with a towel and someone who hasn't bathed in 3 weeks. Or you might get lucky and find yourself next to a sharp dressed business man on his way to anywhere and a colored hipster who's too cool to glace your direction. Its an exotic mix of rich and poor, old and young. Trendy, ugly, intriguing, annoyed. And then there's us. Eyes wide. Heads moving along with the music coming out the speakers, thinking: this is like nothing I've ever known.

Because in our country we pay to never get this close. Our seats are wider. Our disdain for human contact more pressing than our desire to save money. Here this is a way of life, forced upon those who have no other option, and chosen by those who know how lucky they are to have the choice.

One small downside is that these kumvees are not safe to ride in after dark or alone. Naturally they turn into rape vans when the sun sets-- strange that the notion feels natural. The kumvee companies are apparently also involved in gang wars and I will unhappily report that I witnessed The Yeller in our kumvee get into a fist fight with someone on the street.

Concessions made and put aside, when used judiciously these mini bus taxis are an extremely affordable and efficient way to get around town. They make me wonder: why can't New Orleans figure rip a page out of Cape Town's book?

Love from my new favorite mode of transportation,


A

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